Simena

Simena is a small but captivating ancient Lycian coastal settlement perched on a rocky hillside overlooking Kekova Bay on Turkey's southwestern Mediterranean coast. Known today as Kalekoy ("Castle Village"), it is one of the rare inhabited sites in Turkey that can only be reached by sea or on foot -- no road leads here. The village is crowned by a medieval crusader castle that incorporates the remains of an ancient Lycian fortress and contains the smallest known theatre in Lycia, carved from living rock with just 7 rows of seats accommodating roughly 300 spectators. Directly across the bay, the partially submerged ruins of the ancient city of Dolichiste on Kekova Island shimmer beneath crystal-clear turquoise waters, creating one of the most iconic archaeological seascapes in the Mediterranean. Simena was a member of the Lycian League, one of the ancient world's earliest federal democracies, and its half-submerged Lycian sarcophagus rising from the harbour waters has become the defining image of the entire Kekova region.

1. Why Simena Matters
2. Geography and Setting
3. Historical Timeline
4. Major Monuments
5. The Sunken City of Kekova
6. The Lycian League
7. Archaeological Work
8. Visitor Information
9. Frequently Asked Questions
10. Sources and Further Reading

Why Simena Matters

Simena holds a special place among Turkey's ancient sites for several compelling reasons:

• The smallest theatre in Lycia. Carved directly from the bedrock within the hilltop castle, Simena's theatre has just 7 rows of seats and an estimated capacity of only 300 spectators. This miniature performance space reveals how even small Lycian communities maintained civic and cultural institutions.

• An icon of Mediterranean underwater archaeology. The submerged ruins along Kekova Island's northern shore -- staircases descending into the sea, house foundations visible at 4--5 metre depths, partially sunken harbour walls -- constitute one of the best-preserved underwater archaeological landscapes in the world.

• A Lycian League member. Simena was part of the Lycian League (Lycian Federation), which the Roman statesman Montesquieu later cited as a model for federal government. Simena formed a sympoliteia (political union) with the nearby cities of Aperlai, Apollonia, and Isinda, collectively casting one vote in the League assembly.

• Dramatic accessibility. The fact that Simena can only be reached by boat or footpath has preserved its character almost unchanged for centuries, making it one of the most authentic ancient village-ruin experiences on the Turkish coast.

• A living village among ruins. Like Herakleia at Latmos, Kalekoy is an inhabited village intertwined with ancient remains. Its stone houses, rooftop restaurants, and friendly cats coexist with Lycian sarcophagi and Byzantine cisterns.

Geography and Setting

Simena sits on a steep, south-facing hillside on the northern shore of Kekova Bay, between the modern towns of Kas (25 km southwest by sea) and Demre (ancient Myra, 35 km east). The settlement faces south toward Kekova Island (ancient Dolichiste), which shelters the bay from open-sea swells and creates a calm, protected anchorage.

The Kekova Special Environmental Protection Area was declared in 1990, making it one of Turkey's first protected zones. The designation covers 260 square kilometres of sea, coastline, and hinterland, strictly regulating construction and anchoring. Swimming and diving near the sunken ruins are prohibited to protect the underwater archaeology.

The coastline here is typical of Lycia: deeply indented, rocky, covered with Mediterranean maquis (myrtle, carob, wild olive), and backed by the forested ridges of the western Taurus Mountains.

Historical Timeline

Lycian Origins (4th century BC and earlier)

The name Simena (or Isimea in Lycian) first appears in Lycian inscriptions dating to the 4th century BC, although the settlement may be considerably older. The Lycians were an indigenous Anatolian people with their own language, script, and distinctive funerary traditions (rock-cut tombs and sarcophagi). Simena was always a small community, overshadowed by larger Lycian cities such as Myra, Xanthos, and Patara.

Hellenistic Period (3rd--1st century BC)

During the Hellenistic era, Simena was part of the broader Lycian political landscape, eventually becoming a member of the Lycian League. The League was a federation of Lycian cities that functioned as a representative democracy -- one of the earliest known federal systems. Simena joined in a sympoliteia with Aperlai, Apollonia, and Isinda, the four communities collectively holding one vote in the League assembly.

Roman Period (1st century BC--4th century AD)

The Roman author Pliny the Elder (1st century AD) provides the first literary mention of Simena by name. Under Roman rule, Lycia was initially granted limited autonomy (a reward for supporting Rome in various conflicts) before being incorporated as a province in AD 43 under Emperor Claudius. Simena continued as a minor settlement, its small size reflected in its single vote shared among four communities.

Earthquake and Subsidence (2nd century AD)

A devastating earthquake in the 2nd century AD caused significant tectonic subsidence along this stretch of coastline. Parts of Simena, and much of the neighbouring city of Dolichiste on Kekova Island, sank below sea level. Building foundations, staircases, dock structures, and even entire streets were submerged, creating the "sunken city" visible today. This geological event is one of the most dramatic examples of seismic coastline change in the ancient Mediterranean.

Byzantine Period (5th--12th century)

During the Byzantine era, the castle on the hilltop was expanded and a small church was built. The church appears to have been used sequentially as a temple, then a church, and finally, during the Ottoman period, possibly as a mosque -- a remarkable example of religious architectural continuity. Byzantine-era cisterns for water storage were cut into the rock.

Medieval Period: Knights of St. John

The castle in its current form was substantially rebuilt or renovated by the Knights of St. John (Knights Hospitaller) during the medieval period, who used it as a coastal watchtower and stronghold. The castle's well-preserved walls and towers date primarily to this era.

Ottoman Period and Modern Village

After the Ottoman conquest of the region, the settlement continued as a small fishing village. The Turkish name Kalekoy ("Castle Village") reflects the castle's dominant presence. The village has maintained its traditional character due to the absence of road access.

Major Monuments

Simena Castle

The castle crowns the hilltop and is the most prominent structure in Kalekoy:

• Construction: Lycian foundation, Byzantine expansion, Crusader-era (Knights of St. John) rebuild
• Features: Curtain walls, small towers, water cisterns, interior chambers
• Within the castle: The famous miniature theatre and remains of the multi-faith religious building
• Views: From the battlements, visitors enjoy a 360-degree panorama of Kekova Island, the sunken city, surrounding bays, and the Taurus Mountains

The climb to the castle takes approximately 10--15 minutes from the harbour along a steep stone path.

The Smallest Theatre in Lycia

Carved directly into the bedrock inside the castle walls, this tiny theatre is one of Simena's most remarkable features:

• Rows of seats: 7
• Estimated capacity: approximately 300 spectators
• Construction: Rock-cut (hewn from living stone)
• Period: Likely Hellenistic or Roman
• Purpose: Probably served as an odeon (small performance venue) or assembly space rather than a full theatrical venue

Despite its small size, the theatre demonstrates that even minor Lycian settlements invested in civic architecture for public gatherings, performances, or political meetings.

The Submerged Sarcophagus

Perhaps the single most photographed archaeological feature in all of Lycia, a Lycian-type sarcophagus stands in the shallow waters of Simena's harbour:

• Material: Local limestone
• Style: Classic Lycian pointed-arch (ogival) lid
• Submergence: Partially underwater due to the 2nd-century AD earthquake subsidence
• Location: Visible from the harbour, best seen from a boat

The sarcophagus has become the symbol of the entire Kekova region and appears in countless travel photographs and tourism campaigns.

Necropolis

Northeast of the castle, a large necropolis spreads across the hillside, containing:

• Lycian sarcophagi with pointed-arch lids (the distinctive Lycian style)
• Rock-cut tombs carved into cliff faces
• Various tomb types spanning the Lycian, Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine periods

Some sarcophagi bear Lycian inscriptions identifying the deceased and their families.

Water Cisterns

Multiple rock-cut cisterns are scattered throughout the site, reflecting the critical importance of water storage in a settlement without reliable freshwater springs. These cisterns collected rainwater and were plastered internally for waterproofing.

Multi-Faith Religious Building

Within the castle precinct, remains of a building that served successively as a pagan temple, a Christian church, and possibly a mosque during the Ottoman era demonstrate the remarkable continuity of sacred space at this location.

The Sunken City of Kekova

The sunken city along the northern shore of Kekova Island (ancient Dolichiste) is one of the most extraordinary underwater archaeological sites in the Mediterranean:

What Happened

A major earthquake in the 2nd century AD caused tectonic subsidence along this section of the Lycian coast. The northern edge of Kekova Island and parts of the mainland coast (including portions of Simena) dropped below sea level. Buildings, streets, harbour infrastructure, and domestic structures were partially or fully submerged.

What You Can See

From a boat (glass-bottom boats are available), visitors can observe:

• Stone staircases descending from the shore into the water
• House foundations and wall outlines at depths of 1--5 metres
• Pier and dock remains extending underwater
• Storage rooms and cisterns partially above, partially below water
• Pottery fragments on the sea floor

The crystal clarity of the water in Kekova Bay makes these ruins remarkably visible, creating an effect that many visitors describe as a "Turkish Atlantis."

Protection Status

The Kekova area was designated a Specially Protected Area (SPA) in 1990. Strict regulations govern the area:

• Swimming near the sunken ruins is prohibited
• Diving is restricted to authorized scientific expeditions
• Anchoring is controlled to prevent damage to underwater features
• Construction is severely limited throughout the protection zone

These measures have been largely successful in preserving the underwater ruins in their current remarkable condition.

The Lycian League

Understanding Simena requires understanding the Lycian League, one of the ancient world's most remarkable political institutions:

• Nature: A federal democracy uniting the cities of Lycia under a common assembly and shared governance
• Period: Active from at least the 2nd century BC; effectively ended when Rome annexed Lycia as a province in AD 43
• Voting system: Cities were assigned 1, 2, or 3 votes based on size and importance
• Simena's status: Simena was part of a sympoliteia with Aperlai, Apollonia, and Isinda -- four small communities that collectively held 1 vote in the assembly
• Historical influence: The French political philosopher Montesquieu (1689--1755) praised the Lycian League as a model of federal governance in his influential work The Spirit of the Laws (1748). The American Founding Fathers, particularly James Madison, studied the Lycian League when designing the federal structure of the United States.

This means that when you stand in Simena's tiny theatre, you are standing in a space where one of humanity's earliest experiments in representative federal democracy was practised.

Archaeological Work

• 19th century: European travellers and naval surveyors, including members of the British Admiralty, documented the Kekova coastline and noted the submerged ruins.

• 1990 protection designation: The establishment of the Kekova Special Environmental Protection Area brought formal legal protection to both the terrestrial and underwater ruins.

• Underwater surveys: Turkish and international underwater archaeology teams have conducted periodic surveys of the sunken city, documenting structures, mapping the seabed, and assessing conservation needs.

• Castle and necropolis documentation: The castle, theatre, necropolis, and harbour-area sarcophagi have been documented by Turkish archaeological teams, though systematic large-scale excavation has not been conducted due to the inhabited nature of the site and protection regulations.

• Ongoing challenges: The primary conservation challenge is managing the growing number of boat tours that bring visitors close to the fragile underwater ruins, while maintaining the pristine water quality that makes the site visible.

Visitor Information

Getting There

Simena (Kalekoy) is accessible only by boat or footpath:

• By boat from Ucagiz: The most common approach. Drive to Ucagiz village (accessible by road from Kas or Demre), then take a short boat ride (approximately 10 minutes, 2 km) across the bay to Kalekoy. Local fishermen offer regular taxi-boat services.
• By footpath from Ucagiz: A scenic coastal trail connects Ucagiz to Kalekoy (approximately 3 km, 45--60 minutes). The path passes through maquis scrub with views over the bay.
• By boat tour from Kas: Many operators in Kas run full-day Kekova boat tours that include stops at Kalekoy, the sunken city, and Ucagiz. These typically depart at 10:00 AM and return by 5:00--6:00 PM.
• By gulet cruise: Multi-day sailing trips along the Lycian coast frequently include Kekova Bay as a highlight stop.

Driving to Ucagiz

• From Kas: Approximately 35 km east on the D-400, then turn south on the signed road to Ucagiz (20 km). Total: approximately 1 hour.
• From Demre: Approximately 25 km west to the Ucagiz turn-off, then 20 km south. Total: approximately 45 minutes.
• From Antalya: Approximately 195 km southwest via the D-400 coastal highway. Total: approximately 3 hours.

On Site

• Castle entrance: A small admission fee is typically charged for entry to the castle and theatre.
• Terrain: Steep stone paths through the village; the climb to the castle requires moderate fitness. Not suitable for wheelchair access.
• Facilities: Several small rooftop restaurants and tea gardens in the village, with stunning views over the bay. Simple pensions offer overnight stays.
• Duration: Allow 2--3 hours for Kalekoy alone, or a full day for a combined Kekova boat tour including the sunken city, Kalekoy, and Ucagiz.

Best Time to Visit

• Spring (April--June): Ideal weather, fewer crowds than summer, wildflowers blooming.
• Autumn (September--October): Warm sea, soft light, comfortable temperatures.
• Summer (July--August): Hot and crowded, but the sea is warmest for swimming (away from the protected zone).
• Winter: Many village facilities close. Boat services are limited. However, winter visitors enjoy complete solitude and dramatic stormy skies.

Combined Visits

• Ucagiz (ancient Teimiussa): Lycian sarcophagi standing in the harbour waters, similar to Simena.
• Myra (Demre): Spectacular Lycian rock tombs and a large Roman theatre; also the Church of St. Nicholas (Santa Claus).
• Aperlai: Ruins of another Lycian League member, accessible by boat or hiking trail from Ucagiz.
• Kas: Charming coastal town with the Antiphellos theatre and a Lycian sarcophagus in the town centre.
• Patara: Lycia's principal port with the longest sand beach in Turkey and the Lycian League parliament building.

Tips

• Book a boat tour that includes glass-bottom boat viewing of the sunken city for the best experience.
• Visit the castle in the late afternoon for the best light and cooler temperatures.
• Bring cash -- credit card acceptance is limited in this remote village.
• The walk from Ucagiz to Kalekoy is highly recommended for experienced hikers.
• Respect the swimming prohibition near the sunken ruins; enforcement is active.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I swim near the sunken city?

No. Swimming and diving near the submerged ruins on the northern shore of Kekova Island are strictly prohibited to protect the underwater archaeology. Swimming is permitted in other designated areas of Kekova Bay.

How small is the theatre really?

The theatre has just 7 rows of seats and could hold approximately 300 people. For comparison, the nearby theatre at Myra seats about 11,500. It is genuinely the smallest known theatre in Lycia and one of the smallest in the ancient world.

Why is the sarcophagus in the water?

A major earthquake in the 2nd century AD caused tectonic subsidence along this coastline, lowering the ground level by several metres. The sarcophagus was originally on dry land but is now partially submerged due to this geological event.

Is there accommodation in Kalekoy?

Yes. Several small pensions (guesthouses) operate in the village, offering simple rooms and meals. Staying overnight is a wonderful experience, as you can enjoy the village after the day-trip boats have departed. Book in advance during peak season.

How do Simena and Ucagiz relate to each other?

In antiquity, Simena and Teimiussa (modern Ucagiz) were neighbouring Lycian settlements on opposite sides of the same bay. Together with Aperlai and Apollonia, they formed a sympoliteia (political union) that held one collective vote in the Lycian League.

Is the boat tour worth it?

Absolutely. The Kekova boat tour (typically from Kas or Ucagiz) is one of the most popular excursions on the Turkish Mediterranean coast for good reason. The combination of turquoise water, visible underwater ruins, the Kalekoy castle, and the dramatic Lycian coastline creates an unforgettable experience.

Architectural Measurements and Structural Analysis

Detailed survey work on Simena's theatre and harbour structures has yielded precise measurements that illuminate the scale of this small Lycian settlement.

Theatre Dimensions

The theatre's orchestra diameter of 5.80 metres is among the smallest recorded for any Greek-style performance space in Anatolia. By comparison, the nearby theatre at Myra has an orchestra diameter of approximately 30 metres, making Simena's roughly one-fifth the size. The three staircases dividing the cavea into two cunei follow standard Hellenistic theatrical convention despite the diminutive scale.

Tectonic Subsidence Measurements

The 2nd-century AD earthquake that created the sunken city produced measurable coastal displacement documented by marine geophysical surveys conducted in the 2017--2018 campaigns.

The subsidence was not uniform. The northern edge of Kekova Island (ancient Dolichiste) dropped more severely than the mainland at Simena, which explains why Dolichiste has far more extensive underwater remains while Simena's harbour-side sarcophagus is only partially submerged.

Underwater Archaeological Survey Campaigns

Marine archaeological and geophysical surveys have been conducted on the submerged remains in three principal zones around Kekova Island:

1. Tersane Koyu (Shipyard Bay): A natural bay on the island's western end where ship-related infrastructure was documented beneath the waterline, including mooring stones and dock foundations.

2. Northern Settlement Zone: The approximately 1 km stretch of submerged coastline where house foundations, staircases, cisterns, and street-level remains are visible at depths of 1--5 metres. This zone constitutes the core of the "sunken city" visited by glass-bottom boat tours.

3. Eastern Lighthouse Zone: The area near the modern lighthouse marking the island's eastern tip, where additional submerged structural remains were identified during the 2017--2018 campaign.

Findings from these surveys include detailed bathymetric mapping of submerged walls, identification of construction phases visible in underwater masonry, and documentation of ceramic scatter patterns on the seabed that indicate domestic occupation before submergence.

Lycian League Sympoliteia Voting Structure

Simena's political position within the Lycian League can be understood through the federation's graduated voting system, one of the earliest known proportional representation mechanisms.

The four-city sympoliteia of Simena, Aperlai, Apollonia, and Isinda demonstrates how the League accommodated very small communities. Rather than excluding them from federal governance, the League permitted them to pool resources and share representation -- a mechanism that allowed settlements as small as Simena (estimated population under 500) to participate in decisions affecting the entire Lycian nation.

The League assembly elected a Lyciarch (federal president) and federal judges, levied proportional taxes, and coordinated military defence. Strabo (Geography 14.3.3) provides the fullest ancient description of this system, which was later studied by Montesquieu and the American constitutional framers.

Sources and Further Reading

• Wikipedia: Kekova
• Wikipedia: Simena
• Turkish Museums: Antalya Simena Archaeological Site
• Ancient Theatre Archive: Simena
• Kekova Travel: Simena Castle
• Blue Explorer Magazine: The Sunken City of Kekova
• Kalkan Holidays: Kekova, Simena and Myra Guide
• Demre.net: Kekova and Simena Guide

Lycian Funerary Architecture at Simena

The sarcophagi and rock tombs at Simena exemplify the distinctive Lycian funerary tradition, which is one of the most recognizable archaeological signatures in Anatolia:

Sarcophagus Types

• Pointed-arch (ogival) lid: The classic Lycian sarcophagus has a distinctive peaked, Gothic-arch-shaped lid that resembles an inverted boat keel. This form is believed to imitate wooden structures, possibly reflecting Lycian wooden house construction.
• Flat-lidded type: Some sarcophagi have flat or gabled lids, reflecting Greek influence in later periods.
• Base pedestals: Many sarcophagi stand on high stone pedestals, elevating the burial above ground level -- perhaps for visibility or protection from flooding.

Rock-Cut Tombs

The necropolis also includes tombs carved directly into cliff faces. These range from simple rectangular chambers to elaborate facades mimicking temple fronts, though at Simena the rock tombs are generally simpler than the spectacular examples at Myra or Dalyan (Kaunos).

Inscriptions

Several sarcophagi bear Lycian-language inscriptions using the unique Lycian alphabet. These texts typically identify the tomb owner, list family members, and sometimes include curse formulas threatening divine punishment against anyone who disturbs the burial.

The Lycian Way and Simena

Simena lies along the route of the Lycian Way (Likya Yolu), Turkey's first long-distance hiking trail:

• Total length: approximately 540 km from Fethiye to Antalya
• Simena section: The trail passes through Ucagiz and connects to Kalekoy via the coastal footpath
• Difficulty near Simena: Easy to moderate
• Highlights: Coastal views, maquis-scented air, passages between ancient ruins
• Season: Best hiked October--May; summer is too hot for the full route

Trekkers on the Lycian Way often overnight in Kalekoy, making it one of the trail's most memorable stops. The contrast between arriving by foot through the wilderness and suddenly encountering the medieval castle and ancient harbour is a defining experience of the trail.

Marine Life in Kekova Bay

The protected waters of Kekova Bay support a healthy Mediterranean marine ecosystem:

• Loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta) are occasionally spotted in the bay
• Monk seals (Monachus monachus, critically endangered) have been reported in caves along the Kekova coastline
• Fish species include grouper, sea bream, and barracuda
• Posidonia seagrass meadows on the bay floor support juvenile fish populations

The protection regulations that preserve the underwater ruins also benefit marine biodiversity, making Kekova an unintentional marine conservation success story.

Glossary of Key Terms

• Lycia: An ancient region in southwestern Anatolia, between Caria and Pamphylia, home to the Lycians
• Lycian League: A federal democracy of Lycian cities, operational from the 2nd century BC
• Sympoliteia: A political union between cities that shared governance and voting rights
• Odeon: A small, usually roofed theatre for musical performances or council meetings
• Necropolis: A cemetery, literally "city of the dead"
• Sarcophagus: A stone coffin, often decorated and inscribed
• Tectonic subsidence: The sinking of land due to earthquake-related geological movement
• Specially Protected Area (SPA): A Turkish environmental designation restricting development and activities
• Circumvallation: Not applicable at Simena but common at siege sites; a defensive wall surrounding a besieged position
• Maquis: Dense Mediterranean shrubland vegetation typical of the Lycian coast