Iasos

Kıyıkışlacık, Milas (Muğla)

20 min read

Overview: Iasos was an ancient Carian harbor city built on a small peninsula jutting into the Güllük Gulf (ancient Gulf of Iasos) near the modern village of Kıyıkışlacık in Milas district, Muğla Province. Famous throughout antiquity for its extraordinary fisheries — Strabo wrote that Iasians loved fish so much they could not hear a lyre player over the fish market — Iasos was a major commercial port from the Bronze Age through the Byzantine era. The site preserves a remarkably complete urban ensemble including a Hellenistic Bouleuterion, Roman agora, theater, city walls, a stunning mausoleum, and early Christian basilicas, all set against the turquoise waters of the Aegean. Italian archaeological missions have excavated the site since 1960, revealing continuous occupation spanning over 5,000 years and uncovering some of Anatolia's most important Bronze Age discoveries, including pottery buried by the Thera volcanic eruption (c. 1628 BC).

  1. Why Iasos Matters
  2. Geography and Setting
  3. Historical Timeline
  4. Bronze Age Origins
  5. The Thera Eruption Evidence
  6. Carian Identity and the Delian League
  7. The Famous Fisheries
  8. The Bouleuterion
  9. The Agora
  10. The Theater
  11. The Mausoleum
  12. City Walls and Gates
  13. The Artemis Temple
  14. Roman and Byzantine Iasos
  15. The Fish Child Mosaic
  16. Italian Archaeological Excavations
  17. The Antiquarium Museum
  18. Economy and Trade
  19. How to Visit Iasos
  20. FAQ
  21. Sources

Why Iasos Matters

Iasos is significant for multiple reasons:

  • 5,000+ years of continuous occupation: From the Early Bronze Age (3rd millennium BC) through the Byzantine period — one of the longest urban histories in western Anatolia
  • Thera eruption evidence: Pottery sealed beneath Thera volcanic ash (c. 1628 BC) provides crucial chronological evidence for Aegean Bronze Age studies
  • Ancient fish capital: Proverbially famous throughout the ancient world for its fisheries and fish-obsessed citizens — multiple ancient authors tell humorous anecdotes about Iasian devotion to fish
  • Complete urban ensemble: Bouleuterion, agora, theater, walls, mausoleum, temples, and basilicas — all preserved in a compact, walkable setting
  • Peninsula setting: The dramatic peninsula location surrounded by turquoise waters makes Iasos one of the most scenically beautiful archaeological sites in Türkiye
  • Italian excavations since 1960: Over six decades of systematic Italian archaeological work have made Iasos one of the best-documented ancient cities in Caria
  • Minoan connections: Bronze Age finds suggest trade connections with Minoan Crete, raising questions about early Aegean networks

Geography and Setting

Iasos occupies a small rocky peninsula in the Güllük Gulf on the Aegean coast of southwestern Türkiye.

Location:

  • Kıyıkışlacık village, Milas district, Muğla Province
  • On a peninsula approximately 500 meters long and 350 meters wide
  • The peninsula was originally an island, connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus (now a causeway)
  • About 28 km south of Milas
  • About 60 km from Bodrum
  • On the eastern shore of the Güllük Gulf (ancient Gulf of Bargylia/Iasos)

Landscape:

  • A rocky peninsula surrounded by turquoise Aegean waters on three sides
  • The ancient harbor lies in the sheltered bay between the peninsula and the mainland
  • Low hills behind the mainland section of the city
  • Olive groves and Mediterranean scrubland on the surrounding hills
  • The fishing village of Kıyıkışlacık occupies part of the ancient isthmus area
  • The setting is strikingly beautiful — ancient ruins overlooking the sea in every direction

Climate:

  • Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters
  • The coastal location provides pleasant sea breezes even in summer
  • Swimming is possible from beaches adjacent to the ruins

Historical Timeline

PeriodDateKey Events
Early Bronze Agec. 3000–2000 BCFirst settlement on the peninsula
Middle Bronze Agec. 2000–1600 BCMinoan-influenced pottery; trade connections with Crete
Thera eruptionc. 1628 BCVolcanic ash layer seals pottery — critical dating evidence
Late Bronze Agec. 1600–1200 BCMycenaean influence; continued habitation
Dark Agec. 1200–800 BCReduced settlement
Archaicc. 800–500 BCGreek colonization from Argos (traditional); Carian-Greek city
Classical5th century BCMember of Delian League; tribute to Athens
Hellenistic4th–1st century BCUnder Alexander, Ptolemies, Seleucids, Rhodes; Bouleuterion built
Roman1st century BC–4th century ADPeak prosperity; agora, mausoleum, theater expanded
Byzantine5th–13th centuryBasilicas built; bishopric established
Ottoman14th century onwardFishing village (Asin Kalesi, later Kıyıkışlacık)
Modern excavation1960–presentItalian archaeological missions

Bronze Age Origins

Iasos has one of the earliest and most important Bronze Age sequences in western Anatolia.

Early Bronze Age (c. 3000–2000 BC):

  • The peninsula was first settled in the 3rd millennium BC
  • Early fortification walls suggest a defended settlement
  • Pottery and small finds indicate participation in Aegean trade networks
  • The natural harbor provided protection for early maritime trade

Middle Bronze Age (c. 2000–1600 BC):

  • Remarkable pottery with Minoan characteristics has been found
  • These finds suggest direct trade connections with Crete during the Minoan palace period
  • Iasos may have been a node in the Minoan trading network that connected Crete with the Anatolian coast
  • The quality and quantity of Minoan-style pottery at Iasos is unusual for a mainland Anatolian site

Late Bronze Age (c. 1600–1200 BC):

  • Mycenaean pottery appears, reflecting the shift from Minoan to Mycenaean dominance in the Aegean
  • Continued maritime trade
  • The settlement survived the Bronze Age collapse, though at reduced scale

The Thera Eruption Evidence

One of Iasos's most important scientific contributions is its evidence for the Thera (Santorini) volcanic eruption.

The discovery:

  • Italian excavators found a volcanic ash layer (tephra) sealing Middle Bronze Age pottery
  • This ash has been identified as coming from the catastrophic Thera eruption — one of the largest volcanic events in human history
  • The eruption is dated to approximately 1628 BC (though some scholars argue for c. 1530 BC)

Significance:

  • The Thera eruption destroyed the Minoan settlement of Akrotiri on Santorini
  • Ash fell across a huge area of the eastern Mediterranean
  • At Iasos, the ash layer provides a precise chronological marker — pottery below the ash is definitively older than the eruption
  • This helps calibrate the chronology of Aegean Bronze Age pottery styles
  • Iasos is one of relatively few sites in Anatolia where Thera ash has been scientifically documented in an archaeological context

Carian Identity and the Delian League

Iasos occupied the intersection of Carian and Greek cultures:

Carian roots:

  • Iasos was in the heartland of ancient Caria — the indigenous Anatolian people of southwestern Türkiye
  • The local population maintained Carian cultural elements alongside Greek ones
  • Carian language inscriptions have been found at the site
  • The goddess Artemis Astias (a Carian manifestation of Artemis) was a primary deity

Greek colonization tradition:

  • Ancient sources claim Iasos was colonized by settlers from Argos in the Peloponnese
  • Whether this represents actual colonization or a later political fiction is debated
  • The city developed Greek institutions (boule, ekklesia, magistrates) alongside Carian traditions

Delian League membership:

  • In the 5th century BC, Iasos was a member of the Delian League — the Athenian-led alliance
  • Athenian tribute lists record Iasos paying 1 talent — a relatively substantial sum indicating a prosperous city
  • During the Peloponnesian War, Iasos was contested between Athens and Sparta
  • In 412 BC, the Spartan commander Lysander captured and sacked Iasos

The Famous Fisheries

Iasos was proverbially famous throughout the ancient world for its fish and fishing culture.

Ancient testimonies:

Strabo (Geography, XIV.2.21):

  • Strabo tells the famous story of a lyre player performing in Iasos — the audience was listening until the fish market bell rang, at which point everyone abandoned the musician and rushed to buy fish
  • Only one deaf man remained, and when the musician thanked him for his loyalty, the man asked: "Has the fish market bell rung yet?"
  • This anecdote was widely repeated and became a proverb for misplaced priorities

Athenaeus (Deipnosophistae):

  • Records that Iasian fishermen were legendary for their skill
  • The Güllük Gulf was exceptionally rich in fish due to its sheltered, warm waters
  • Fish appears on Iasian coins — a direct reflection of the city's economic identity

Archaeological evidence:

  • Fish bones and fishing equipment found in excavations
  • Fish motifs on coins and in decorative art
  • The famous "Fish Child" mosaic (see below) celebrates the legendary connection between Iasos and the sea

Modern continuity:

  • Kıyıkışlacık remains a fishing village to this day
  • The Güllük Gulf still supports a fishing economy
  • Visitors can eat fresh fish in restaurants overlooking the ancient ruins

The Bouleuterion

The Bouleuterion (council house) of Iasos is one of the best-preserved Hellenistic civic buildings in Caria.

Architecture:

  • A semi-circular seating arrangement (cavea) within a rectangular outer wall
  • Capacity for approximately 300–400 council members
  • Well-preserved seating tiers cut from local stone
  • A speaker's platform (bema) at the center
  • Entrance corridors on both sides

Dating:

  • Built in the Hellenistic period (likely 2nd century BC)
  • Modified during the Roman period
  • Continued in use for civic meetings through the Imperial era

Significance:

  • The building demonstrates that Iasos had full Greek-style democratic institutions
  • It served as the meeting place for the city's boule (council) — the body that prepared legislation for the citizen assembly
  • Inscriptions found in and around the bouleuterion record civic decrees, honorary inscriptions, and diplomatic documents

The Agora

The Agora of Iasos was the commercial and civic heart of the city.

Features:

  • A large open square surrounded by stoas (colonnaded porticoes)
  • Located on relatively flat ground between the peninsula and the mainland
  • The agora served as marketplace, civic gathering space, and social center
  • Numerous inscriptions were displayed on the stoa walls and on freestanding stelae

Archaeological significance:

  • Italian excavations have revealed that the agora area has been in continuous use from the 3rd millennium BC through the Byzantine period
  • Layers of occupation spanning 5,000 years are visible in the archaeological sections
  • This extraordinary stratigraphic depth makes the Iasos agora one of the most important long-term urban sites in the Aegean region

Finds:

  • Pottery from every major period of occupation
  • Inscriptions recording trade regulations, citizenship grants, and international treaties
  • Coins from Iasos featuring fish motifs
  • Architectural elements from successive rebuildings

The Theater

The Theater of Iasos is built into the natural slope of the peninsula's hill.

Features:

  • Semi-circular cavea (seating bowl) with excellent sea views
  • Estimated capacity of 5,000–8,000 spectators
  • Well-preserved seating sections in the lower cavea
  • The stage building (skene) is partially ruined
  • A diazoma (horizontal walkway) divides the upper and lower seating sections

Setting:

  • One of the most dramatically located theaters in Anatolia
  • Spectators looked out over the stage to the open sea beyond — a breathtaking backdrop
  • The natural acoustics are enhanced by the bowl shape and the sea breeze

History:

  • Originally constructed in the Hellenistic period
  • Enlarged and modified during the Roman Imperial period
  • Used for dramatic performances, musical events, and public assemblies

The Mausoleum

A large Roman mausoleum (sometimes called the "Balık Pazarı" or Fish Market structure) is among Iasos's most distinctive monuments.

Features:

  • A monumental tomb structure from the Roman Imperial period (2nd century AD)
  • Two-story design with a vaulted lower level and a temple-like upper structure
  • Built of fine cut stone with architectural decoration
  • Located near the ancient harbor area
  • The building has been variously interpreted as a mausoleum, a heroon (hero shrine), or a monumental public building

Significance:

  • The quality of construction indicates it was built for a wealthy and prominent citizen
  • The architectural design combines Roman engineering (vaulting) with Greek temple forms
  • It is one of the best-preserved Roman-era monumental tombs in Caria

City Walls and Gates

Iasos was defended by substantial fortification walls encircling both the peninsula and the mainland section of the city.

Features:

  • Walls of polygonal and ashlar masonry dating from the Classical through Byzantine periods
  • The earliest walls date to the Late Classical/Early Hellenistic period (4th century BC)
  • Towers at regular intervals along the walls
  • A monumental gate on the landward (eastern) side controlled access from the mainland
  • The sea provided natural defense on three sides of the peninsula

Byzantine fortifications:

  • In the Byzantine period, the walls were reinforced and reduced in circuit
  • A castle was built on the highest point of the peninsula
  • Byzantine walls incorporated spolia (reused ancient blocks and inscriptions)

The Artemis Temple

Artemis Astias was the principal deity of Iasos — a Carian form of the Greek goddess Artemis.

The temple:

  • A temple of Artemis has been identified on the peninsula
  • Architectural fragments including column drums and capitals
  • Votive inscriptions dedicated to Artemis Astias
  • The cult of Artemis at Iasos had distinctly Carian characteristics, differing from the purely Greek Artemis

Other religious sites:

  • A sanctuary of Zeus Megistos (Zeus the Greatest) has been identified
  • Smaller shrines and cult installations throughout the city
  • In the Byzantine period, Christian basilicas replaced or were built near the pagan temples

Roman and Byzantine Iasos

Iasos continued to prosper through the Roman Imperial and Byzantine periods.

Roman period (1st century BC – 4th century AD):

  • Under Roman rule, Iasos benefited from the Pax Romana
  • The agora, theater, and civic buildings were expanded and embellished
  • Marble was imported for monumental construction
  • The fishing economy continued to generate wealth
  • Mosaics, sculptures, and inscriptions attest to a prosperous urban life

Byzantine period (5th–13th century):

  • Multiple Christian basilicas were built, including a large basilica near the agora
  • Iasos became the seat of a bishopric within the Diocese of Asia
  • The city walls were reinforced
  • The population gradually declined as the harbor silted up
  • By the late Byzantine period, Iasos was reduced to a small fortified settlement

The Fish Child Mosaic

One of Iasos's most famous artifacts is the "Fish Child" (Balık Çocuk) mosaic — a Roman-era mosaic depicting a boy riding a dolphin.

The legend:

  • Ancient sources tell the story of a boy from Iasos who befriended a dolphin
  • The dolphin would carry the boy across the bay on its back
  • The story became famous throughout the ancient world — authors including Pliny the Elder and Aelian recorded versions
  • When the boy died, the dolphin reportedly died of grief

The mosaic:

  • A mosaic found at Iasos depicts this legendary scene
  • The boy is shown riding the dolphin through waves
  • The mosaic is displayed in the Milas Museum
  • The dolphin story reinforced Iasos's identity as a city uniquely connected to the sea

Italian Archaeological Excavations

Iasos has been excavated by Italian archaeological missions since 1960 — one of the longest-running Italian excavations in Türkiye.

History of excavation:

  • Doro Levi (Scuola Archeologica Italiana di Atene) began excavations in 1960
  • Subsequent directors continued the work through various Italian institutions
  • The excavations have been remarkably productive, with major finds in every season

Key achievements:

  • Documentation of the complete Bronze Age sequence, including Minoan-era pottery
  • Identification of the Thera ash layer — critical for Aegean chronology
  • Excavation of the agora, bouleuterion, theater, and city walls
  • Recovery of hundreds of inscriptions providing detailed information about civic life
  • Conservation and partial restoration of major monuments
  • Creation of the on-site Antiquarium (small museum)

Methodology:

  • The Italian teams have applied rigorous stratigraphic methods
  • Detailed publication of finds in Italian and international archaeological journals
  • Collaboration with Turkish archaeological authorities and Milas Museum
  • Community engagement with the village of Kıyıkışlacık

The Antiquarium Museum

A small on-site Antiquarium (museum) displays selected finds from the excavations.

Exhibits:

  • Pottery from the Bronze Age through the Byzantine period
  • Architectural fragments and inscriptions
  • Small finds including coins, figurines, and jewelry
  • Explanatory panels about the site's history
  • The main collection of Iasos finds is housed in the Milas Museum and the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology

Economy and Trade

Iasos's economy was shaped by its peninsula location and rich marine resources.

Fisheries:

  • The primary economic activity — Iasos was the fish capital of the ancient Aegean
  • The Güllük Gulf's warm, sheltered waters supported abundant marine life
  • Fish were salted, dried, and exported across the Mediterranean
  • Fish sauce (garum) production may have supplemented the fresh fish trade

Maritime trade:

  • The natural harbor facilitated trade with Aegean islands, mainland Greece, and the eastern Mediterranean
  • Iasos lay on maritime routes connecting the Carian coast with Rhodes, Crete, and Egypt
  • Exports included fish products, marble, and agricultural goods
  • Imports included fine pottery, wine, and luxury goods

Marble:

  • The Iasos region produced a distinctive red-veined marble (rosso antico / Iasos marble)
  • This marble was prized throughout the Roman Empire for decorative use
  • Columns of Iasos marble can be found in buildings as far away as Rome
  • Marble quarrying and export was a significant source of wealth

Agriculture:

  • Olive cultivation on the surrounding hills
  • Grain production in the hinterland
  • Beekeeping — Caria was famous for its honey

How to Visit Iasos

Getting there:

  • From Milas: 28 km south (about 35 minutes)
  • From Bodrum: 60 km (about 1 hour)
  • From Muğla: 85 km (about 1.5 hours)
  • Drive to Kıyıkışlacık village — the ruins are at the western end of the village
  • No regular public transport; rental car or taxi from Milas recommended

The site:

  • Allow 2–3 hours for a thorough visit
  • Key stops: Bouleuterion, agora, theater, city walls, mausoleum, basilica ruins, harbor area
  • The peninsula is compact — easy to walk around in 1–2 hours
  • The village of Kıyıkışlacık has simple restaurants serving fresh fish — a fitting accompaniment to visiting the ancient fish capital
  • Swimming is possible from small beaches adjacent to the ruins

Best time to visit:

  • Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are ideal
  • Summer is hot but the coastal breezes and swimming make it bearable
  • Winter is mild but some paths may be muddy

Practical tips:

  • Wear comfortable walking shoes — some terrain is rocky
  • Bring water and sun protection
  • Photography is excellent — the combination of ancient ruins and turquoise sea is stunning
  • Combine with visits to Herakleia on Latmos (Bafa Gölü), Euromos, and Labraunda for a full Carian archaeological tour
  • The Milas Museum has important finds from Iasos

FAQ

Q: Why was Iasos famous for fish? A: The Güllük Gulf's warm, sheltered waters supported abundant marine life. The city's fishing economy made it proverbially famous — Strabo tells the story of a musician whose audience abandoned him when the fish market bell rang.

Q: What is the Thera ash layer? A: During the catastrophic eruption of Thera (Santorini) around 1628 BC, volcanic ash fell across the eastern Mediterranean. At Iasos, this ash layer was found sealing Bronze Age pottery, providing a critical chronological marker.

Q: Can you swim near the ruins? A: Yes. Small beaches adjacent to the archaeological site allow swimming in the turquoise waters of the Güllük Gulf.

Q: Who excavates Iasos? A: Italian archaeological missions have excavated Iasos since 1960 — one of the longest-running foreign excavations in Türkiye.

Q: What is the Fish Child story? A: Ancient authors tell of a boy from Iasos who befriended a dolphin that would carry him across the bay. When the boy died, the dolphin died of grief. A mosaic depicting this scene was found at the site.

Q: Is there a museum at the site? A: A small on-site Antiquarium displays selected finds. The main collections are in the Milas Museum and Bodrum Museum.

Q: What is Iasos marble? A: The region produced a distinctive red-veined marble (rosso antico) that was prized throughout the Roman Empire for decorative architectural use.

Architectural Measurements and Structural Survey

Systematic documentation by Italian archaeological missions since 1960 has produced detailed measurements of the major monuments at Iasos.

MonumentDimensions / MeasurementsDateNotes
Peninsulac. 500 m long × 350 m wideOriginally an island; connected by narrow isthmus
BouleuterionRectangular outer plan; semi-circular cavea4th century BC (original); 1st century AD (rebuilt)Four staircases divide seat rows; nine lower tiers preserved; diazoma separating three upper rows
TheaterBuilt into hillside; c. 3,500 capacityHellenistic (original); Roman (expanded)Sea-view backdrop; partially preserved scaenae frons
City WallsPolygonal and ashlar masonry circuit4th century BC - ByzantineTowers at regular intervals; monumental eastern gate
Mausoleum ("Balık Pazarı")Two-story; vaulted lower level2nd century ADNow houses the on-site Antiquarium museum
AgoraLarge open square with surrounding stoasMultiple periodsStratigraphic depth spanning c. 5,000 years

The Bouleuterion's original 4th-century BC construction was rebuilt in the 1st century AD in its current form. Its rectangular outer plan encloses rows of seating arranged in a three-quarter circle, with four staircases dividing the sections. Nine lower bastions of the cavea are preserved, above which a separating diazoma leads to three upper rows of steps.

The Iasos Marble (Rosso Antico / Cipollino Rosso)

The quarries of Iasos produced one of antiquity's most prized decorative stones, a distinctive red marble with swirling white bands known variously as rosso antico, cipollino rosso, or Carian marble.

Quarry DataDetails
Number of ancient quarries identified5 quarries within the city territory
Extraction methodHydraulic system during the Roman Imperial period
Stone characteristicsRed matrix with white swirling bands (cipollino rosso) or brecciated texture with white clasts (rosso brecciato)
Quarry locationsTypically at water's edge, facilitating hydraulic cutting and maritime export

Notable Uses of Iasos Marble:

Building / LocationPeriodApplication
Hagia Sophia, Istanbul6th century AD (Justinian)Wall revetment panels
Tomb of Dante, Ravenna, ItalyMedieval / restoredInterior decorative stone
Administrative structures, Greece and IsraelRoman ImperialArchitectural ornament
Various buildings in Rome1st-4th century ADColumns, floor inlay, wall cladding

The hydraulic extraction system at the Iasos quarries represents a sophisticated Roman engineering achievement. Because the quarry faces were typically located at the water's edge, Roman engineers exploited water pressure and flow to aid in cutting and separating marble blocks, reducing the manual labor required and enabling the extraction of large, high-quality slabs suitable for long-distance maritime export.

Excavation Directors and Research Chronology

The Italian excavation at Iasos is one of the longest-running foreign archaeological missions in Turkiye, spanning over six decades under the auspices of the Italian School of Archaeology at Athens (Scuola Archeologica Italiana di Atene).

DirectorPeriodKey Contributions
Doro Levi1960-1972Founded the excavation; established Bronze Age sequence; identified Minoan pottery and Thera ash layer
Clelia Laviosa1972-1984Continued stratigraphic work; documentation of city walls and civic buildings
Fede Berti1984-2011Major campaigns in agora and necropolis; inscription publications; Antiquarium development
Marcello Spanu2011-2013Directorial transition; continued documentation
Current mission2013-presentOngoing conservation, survey, and excavation programs

Key Finds by Period:

PeriodNotable Discoveries
Early Bronze Age (c. 3000-2000 BC)Early fortification walls; participation in Aegean trade networks
Middle Bronze Age (c. 2000-1600 BC)Minoan-characteristic pottery; evidence of direct Cretan trade contacts
Thera Eruption (c. 1628 BC)Volcanic tephra layer sealing MBA pottery; critical Aegean chronological marker
Classical (5th century BC)Delian League tribute records: 1 talent annual payment to Athens
Hellenistic-RomanHundreds of inscriptions detailing civic decrees, citizenship grants, trade regulations

Numismatic Evidence and Fish Iconography

Iasos minted its own coinage from the Classical period onward, and the coin iconography directly reflects the city's economic identity as the fish capital of the Aegean.

Coin Types:

  • Fish motifs appear consistently on Iasian coin reverses, representing the city's primary economic product
  • The fish depicted is typically identified as a sea bass or mullet, species abundant in the Güllük Gulf
  • Civic coin legends identify the issuing authority as the demos (citizen body) of Iasos
  • Some coin issues feature the head of Artemis Astias, the principal deity, on the obverse

The persistence of fish imagery across centuries of coinage, from the Classical through the Imperial period, demonstrates that fishing remained central to civic identity long after other economic activities such as marble quarrying became significant.

Sources

  • Strabo, Geography, Book XIV
  • Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae
  • Pliny the Elder, Natural History
  • Levi, Doro. "Iasos: Excavation Reports" (Annuario della Scuola Archeologica di Atene)
  • Italian Archaeological Mission at Iasos — excavation reports
  • UNESCO, World Heritage Tentative List nominations for Carian sites
  • Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism — Muğla cultural heritage
  • Barrington Atlas of the Greek and Roman World
  • Wikipedia, "Iasos"
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Location Information

Latitude:37.279464
Longitude:27.584966
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